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i heart ridge

back in the olden days of the early 90s, i, skorloff, bought and sold beer and wine for the local grocery monopoly. i knew the world about beer and knew how to sell it profitably. it took a lot of selflessness and practice to learn about wine. selflessness and money.

ridge vineyards specializes in old-vine, single vineyard wines made with exacting traditional methods typical of the pre-Prohibition era. they mostly produce zinfandel but their most famous wine (and most expensive) is their monte bello. they have a special lineup of small lot (5-50 barrel) wines available only by subscription; 5-50 barrels is 110-1100 cases (less than a three-day supply for neverland ranch summer camp). those wines are branded ATP, for Advanced Tasting Program. every now and then, distributors would get a case or two of ATP and twice my store was lucky enough to have access to a few bottles. the first time was a mataro (also known as mourvedre). mataro/mourvedre is almost never available by itself, it's typically used sparingly to add earthiness and complexity to simpler, fruitier varietals; it's also mostly used in field blends, wines where more than one grape is grown in a single vineyard. my second ATP was a non-vintage cabernet. it was non-vintage because it was a blend of rustic cabs from 1981 and 1982 - basically it was superb, powerful, twelve-year old cabernet. from that time i was hooked. unfortunately, i couldn't get any more ATPs from the distributor and i couldn't subscribe because the texas alcohol laws at the time made shipping from out-of-state impossible.

fast forward eleven years and a law change. a new ridge is on my doorstep every month (two bottles at a time).

their packaging has the most amazing typography. if you're a fan of engraver fonts, you've found your wine. their corks are smooth and fleshy and stamped with the word "ridge" and the vintage year. besides all that, they are total geeks about documentation. this is the text from card they sent with their april shipment:

2003 CARIGNANE BUCHIGNANI

bottled November 2004, 40 Barrels Produced 100% old vine carignane bottle cost: $24, invoice will not be sent

History

Stan Buchignani's ranch is located on Dutcher Creek Road, in the hills on the far western edge of the Alexander Valley appellation. The majority of the vineyard's carignane was planted in the 1940s. Stan's grandfather, Dominico Cerruti, planted the first block in 1927; his father, Dino, planted the last in the early 1950s. The vineyard's climate bears a strong resemblance to that of upper Dry Creek Valley three miles to the south, where days are warmer. Fog, which tends to hang low in the valley, burns off sooner in the hills. Carignane from Buchignani is complex, its fine structure much like that of a field-blend zinfandel.

Vineyard

First RIDGE Carignane Buchignani
1999
Location
Northwestern edge of the Alexander Valley appellation, in the hills that border upper Dry Creek Valley on the north.
Soils
Benchland: clay loam with stones and gravel, highly weathered, limited topsoil. Front of ranch: gray gravelly clay loam.
Vines
Carignane: 5 acres planted 1927 7 acres planted 1940s, 4 acres planted 1952
Training
Head trained (no trellis), spur pruned.
Yield
2.5 tons per acre

Growing Season

Rainfall
Approximately sixty inches
Bloom
mid-May
Weather
Warm days; cool, breezy nights.

Vintage

Harvest Dates
21 - 23 September
Grapes
Average brix 25.0°
Fermentation
No inoculation. Natural primary and secondary. Ten days of pump-over.
Aging
Air-dried american oak barrels (half two and three years old, half four to six years old).
Time in Barrel
Twelve months

Tasting Notes

Color
Medium ruby
Nose
Aromatic red currant, cherry, mulberry. Iron/earth steeliness, complex barrel spice.
Palate
Focused cherry, sun-dried cranberry. Soft tannins, refreshing acidity. Vivid Bing cherry finish.

pretty coo, huh? "vivid bing cherry finish?" they should have called it "vivid BLING cherry finish" because it friggin' sparkled.

now take a look at the info on the wine label itself:

This is our fifth vintage from the gnarled old carignane vines on Buchignani Ranch. Despite late-spring rains and winds, these hardy vines set a modest but even crop. After two years of relatively cool summer temperatures, hot weather—more typical of these hills just north of Dry Creek Valley-—set in by late July. Harvested in the third week of September, the grapes were fully destemmed, crushed, and left to ferment on their own yeasts. Twice-daily pump-overs, generous aerations, and peak fermentation temperatures allowed full extraction of color and tannins. After a natural malolactic fermentation, the wine aged for eleven months in three- to six-year-old american oak barrels. Its structure is balanced by subtle fruit and refreshing acidity. Bright and full-flavored, this is the most elegant of the Buchignani carignanes. Enjoyable now, it will age well for the next three to five years. JO/PD (9/04)

so, enough about their packaging. how's the juice? always intense. always. basically, i do not have a sense of smell ("so, if skorloff can't smell, why does skorloff like wine?" because it tastes good.), but i can sense their wines. really. most of their varietals tend towards dense and inky. some might describe them as hedonistic fruit bombs, i think that's good thing.

UPDATED: carignane is typically found in rhone wines (then again, it seems that few varietals aren't).

Comments (4)

URL: http://www.middleroom.com
The "wine pro" at our local grocery store (which has an extensive selection) is like 19, so... Lead on, skorloff. Lead on. I'll be expecting the "wine" tab to remedy the "stuff" tab.

memekahke:

skorloff rocks the blood oath

skorloff:

URL: http://
me, a wine snob? puh-leaze. i thought i might get my sense of smell back when my sniffer was fixed. no dice. it's been gone for like 10 or 12 years so i haven't really missed it recently. i wonder what it would be like to suddenly get it back.

p-man:

URL: http://
where to begin. there's a wine snob posting on my website. please, somebody help. the word "CARIGNANE BUCHIGNANI" is on my website. what the hell is that anyway? ladies and gentlemen, skorloff's nose is defective. i thought he got it fixed last year, but i may be wrong.

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This page contains a single entry from particleman.org posted on June 8, 2005 8:55 PM.

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